# Pre-Purchase Inspections for Used Cars and Trucks

> Used car or truck inspection before you buy: photos, code scan, test drive and a printed checklist, plus plain limits. Book a pre-purchase inspection.

Source: https://goodyearelitetireupland.com/services/pre-purchase-inspections/  
Last updated: 2026-09-22  
Business: Goodyear Elite Tire Upland, 1775 W Foothill Blvd, Upland, CA 91786, (909) 608-7699

**TL;DR:** A **pre-purchase inspection** checks a used vehicle before you buy it: tires, brakes, leaks, codes and a test drive, with **photos and a printout**. It is **not a warranty**.

A pre-purchase inspection is a paid, independent look at a used car or truck before you buy it. We check tires and date codes, brakes, leaks, suspension, fluids and stored codes, then test drive it. You get photos and a printed checklist. It lowers the odds of a surprise. It is not a warranty or a promise that nothing will fail.

## What is a pre-purchase inspection and why get one?

A pre-purchase inspection (PPI) is a mechanic's look at a used vehicle before money changes hands. The seller's story, a clean history report and a shiny paint job tell you some things. They do not tell you the brakes are metal to metal or the rear tires are seven years old.

The point is leverage and information. With a checklist and photos in hand you can:

- **Walk away** from a vehicle with a costly problem.
- **Negotiate** using a written list of what needs work.
- **Buy with a plan,** knowing what to fix first and what can wait.

We are not the seller and we are not selling the car. Our job is to report what we see. For a printable version of the list, see the [PPI checklist](https://goodyearelitetireupland.com/about/resources/ppi-checklist/).

## What do you check during a pre-purchase inspection?

We check the systems that most often turn a good deal into a bad one: tires, brakes, leaks, steering and suspension, fluids, the battery and charging system, lights, the cooling system, and stored codes. Then we drive it. Every finding goes on the checklist, and the important ones get a photo.

| Area | What we look at |
|---|---|
| Tires | Tread depth in 32nds of an inch, uneven wear, DOT date codes, matching sizes and load index, damage |
| Brakes | Pad friction material in millimeters where visible, rotor thickness against the minimum cast into the part, fluid, pedal feel |
| Leaks | Oil, coolant, transmission, differential, steering, brake fluid |
| Steering and suspension | Play, worn joints, shocks and struts, pull on the road |
| Fluids | Level and condition of oil, coolant, brake and transmission fluid where checkable |
| Battery and charging | Measured cold cranking amps against the figure on the label, plus charging output, which commonly runs 13.5 to 14.7 volts with the engine running |
| Cooling | Hoses, radiator, fan operation, signs of overheating |
| Exterior and underbody | Rust, fresh undercoating, damage, mismatched panels |
| Lights and electrical | Exterior lights, dash warnings, windows and locks |
| Codes | Stored and pending codes, readiness status |

Where a number exists, it goes on the sheet. A new brake pad carries roughly 10 to 12 mm of friction material and most makers retire it near 3 mm, so a pad measured in millimeters tells you how much life you are buying. Every rotor has a discard thickness cast or stamped into it, which means the pass or fail figure comes from the part, not from our opinion.

The DOT date code settles the age question on tires. The last four digits are the week and the year the tire was built, so 3223 means the 32nd week of 2023. Many vehicle makers advise replacing tires about 6 years from that date, and most tire makers set 10 years as the outside limit whatever the tread looks like.

Some items cannot be measured, only asked about. Timing belt intervals commonly fall between 60,000 and 105,000 miles depending on the engine, and on an interference engine a snapped belt lets the valves and pistons meet. If the odometer is near that window, ask the seller for a receipt rather than a story.

Uneven tire wear is one of the clearest clues about alignment and suspension, so we read it closely. Our [tire wear patterns](https://goodyearelitetireupland.com/tires/tire-wear-patterns/) page explains what each pattern suggests.

## What do the photos and printout look like?

You get a printed checklist with each item marked, plus photos of anything worth your attention. Photos are the proof. If we say the front pads are thin or a gasket is wet, you see the picture, and so can the seller.

### How the checklist reads

- **OK:** looked at, nothing concerning found.
- **Watch:** worn or aging, not urgent, plan for it.
- **Needs attention:** a safety or cost item worth fixing or negotiating on now.
- **Not checked:** something we could not reach or test, with the reason.

That last line matters. A good report tells you what was not inspected as clearly as what was. The layout follows the same idea as our [digital inspection sample](https://goodyearelitetireupland.com/why-choose-us/digital-inspection-sample/). Ask the advisor to walk through the printout with you before you leave.

## Why scan for codes on a car with no warning light?

A dark dash does not mean a clean computer. Codes can be stored or pending without a light. If the battery was recently disconnected or codes were cleared, the emissions readiness monitors may show as incomplete. That is worth knowing, because a seller could clear a light the day before you arrive.

What we report:

1. **Stored codes:** faults the computer has logged.
2. **Pending codes:** faults seen once that have not yet turned on a light.
3. **Readiness status:** whether the self-tests have finished since the last reset.

Incomplete monitors are not proof of anything wrong. They are a reason to ask questions. California's Smog Check program is run by the [Bureau of Automotive Repair](https://www.bar.ca.gov/), which tests most vehicles every two years and exempts gasoline vehicles 8 model years old or newer. A car that has not finished its monitors cannot pass the test yet.

Recalls are a separate check and they cost nothing. The VIN has been 17 characters since the 1981 model year, and you can type it into the free lookup at [NHTSA](https://www.nhtsa.gov/recalls) while you are standing next to the car.

## What does the test drive tell you?

The test drive catches what a lift cannot. A technician drives the vehicle on local streets and, when the route allows, at higher speed, feeling and listening for problems that only show while moving.

We note:

- **Engine:** hesitation, misfire feel, unusual noises, warm-up behavior.
- **Transmission:** shift quality, slipping, delayed engagement.
- **Brakes:** pull, pulsation, noise, pedal feel.
- **Steering:** pull, off-center wheel, looseness.
- **Noises:** hums that change with speed, clicks on turns, clunks over bumps.
- **Climate:** whether the AC blows cold and the heater works.

A short drive cannot reproduce every condition. Some faults show only on a long trip, a cold morning or a full load. We say that on the report.

## What extra checks matter on a used truck?

Trucks work harder than cars, and many used trucks have towed or hauled. We add checks that match how trucks get used:

- **Hitch and receiver:** wear, cracks, rust and signs of heavy towing. Hitch ratings are published by class: a Class III is rated to 8,000 pounds gross trailer weight and 800 pounds of tongue weight and takes a 2 inch bar. The ball size stamped on the ball has to match the coupler. See [hitch and tow package inspection](https://goodyearelitetireupland.com/services/hitch-tow-package-inspection/).
- **Trailer wiring:** the connector and lights.
- **Tire load range:** whether the tires match the truck's load rating, not only the size. The load index and speed rating are printed on the sidewall right after the size.
- **4WD engagement:** does it shift in and out, and do the indicator lights agree.
- **Differentials and transfer case:** leaks and fluid condition where checkable.
- **Frame and underbody rust:** especially on trucks that came from snowy or coastal areas.
- **Suspension add-ons:** lift kits, leveling kits and oversized tires change wear and alignment.
- **Diesel items:** on diesel trucks, the fuel-water separator and turbo hoses.

A truck that towed heavy for years can still be a good buy. The inspection helps you price that history.

## What should I say to the seller?

Most honest sellers agree to an inspection. A seller who refuses is telling you something. Keep it simple and polite.

### A script that works

1. "I'm interested. Before I buy, I'd like an independent inspection at a shop."
2. "The shop is Goodyear Elite Tire Upland at 1775 W Foothill Blvd. Can you meet me there, or can I take it?"
3. "I'll pay for the inspection. If it comes back clean, we can talk numbers."
4. After the inspection: "Show me the printout." Then go through it together.

One more question belongs on a private sale. California requires the seller to provide a smog certificate less than 90 days old, unless the vehicle is 4 model years old or newer. Ask to see the certificate and the date on it before you agree on a number.

If the report shows needed work, use the written estimate for those items as the basis for a price talk. If the list is long, walking away is a fine outcome. That is what the inspection is for.

## What can a pre-purchase inspection not tell you?

An inspection is not a warranty. It is not a promise that nothing will fail after you buy the vehicle. It is a record of what a technician could see, test and drive on one day, without taking the engine or transmission apart.

In plain terms:

- We do not open up internal engine or transmission parts during a PPI.
- Intermittent problems may not show during the visit or the drive.
- Parts that look fine can still fail next week or next month.
- We cannot verify past maintenance or mileage beyond what the vehicle and paperwork show.
- Items marked "not checked" were not checked, and the report says why.

A clean report lowers your risk. It does not remove it. If you want added protection, ask the seller or dealer about a written warranty, and read what it covers before you sign.

## Which findings should make me walk away from a used car?

Some findings are negotiating points. Others are reasons to keep shopping. The line depends on your budget and the asking price, but a few problems tend to cost more than buyers expect, so we point them out clearly when we inspect a car before buying.

| Finding | Usually a price talk | Often a walk-away |
|---|---|---|
| Tires at 2/32 inch or pads near 3 mm | Yes, with the written estimate | Only if the price is already high |
| Light oil seepage | Yes | No |
| Coolant in the oil, or signs of overheating | No | Often |
| Transmission slipping on the test drive | No | Often |
| Fresh undercoating over rust or damage | Ask questions first | Often, if the seller will not explain |
| Readiness monitors incomplete after a recent code clear | Ask the seller why | If the answer does not add up |
| Frame damage or poor past repairs | No | Often |

We do not tell you whether to buy. We tell you what we saw, what it may take to address, and what we could not check, so the choice stays yours.

## Needed now versus can wait

### Needed now
- Pads near 3 mm, a rotor under its stamped minimum, or leaking brake fluid
- Tires at 2/32 inch, or with cords, bulges or a date code past 10 years
- Active coolant or oil leak onto hot parts
- Stored codes tied to misfire or overheating
- Steering play or worn joints that affect control

### Can wait
- Dusty cabin and engine air filters
- Light oil seepage with no drip
- Tires around 4/32 inch, fine now and due in a season
- Cosmetic rust on bolts and brackets
- Wiper blades that streak

## Our process

1. **Request the inspection:** Send a request or call with the year, make, model and where the vehicle is. We call or text to confirm a time.
2. **Get the seller on board:** The seller brings the vehicle, or lets you bring it. Keys and permission to drive are required.
3. **Inspect on the lift:** We work through the checklist: tread depth in 32nds, pad thickness in millimeters, leaks, suspension, fluids, battery, cooling and underbody.
4. **Scan and test drive:** We read stored and pending codes and readiness, then drive the vehicle and note how it runs, shifts and stops.
5. **Photos and printout:** Findings go on a printed checklist marked OK, watch, needs attention or not checked, with photos.
6. **Walk through the results:** An advisor goes over the report with you, and with the seller if you want, and prices the needed items on request.

## What's included

- Printed inspection checklist
- Photos of findings worth your attention
- Tread depth in 32nds, wear pattern and DOT date code
- Brake, leak, suspension and steering inspection
- Stored code, pending code and readiness scan
- Battery test in cold cranking amps and charging output in volts
- Test drive with notes
- Used-truck extras: hitch, 4WD, load range, underbody
- Written limitations statement
- Estimate for needed items on request

## Frequently asked questions

### Can you inspect this used car before I buy it?

Yes. Send a request or call (909) 608-7699 with the year, make, model and where the car is. The seller needs to bring it to 1775 W Foothill Blvd or let you bring it. We call or text to confirm a time, since slots depend on the day.

### What should I bring for a pre-purchase inspection?

Bring the vehicle, the keys and the seller's permission to drive it. Service records, the title status and any history report help us focus. If the seller has a spare key, the owner's manual or wheel lock key, bring those too, since missing items are worth knowing about.

### Is a pre-purchase inspection a guarantee?

No. An inspection is not a warranty and not a promise that nothing will fail later. It records what we could see, test and drive that day, without taking the engine or transmission apart. It lowers your risk of a surprise. Our report lists anything we could not check.

### Is a pre-purchase inspection cheaper than fixing surprises later?

Often, yes, because one missed brake, tire or leak problem can cost more than the inspection. Call for the current inspection price. We will not list a number here until the shop sets it, and it goes on your written estimate before we start.

### Do you inspect used trucks and diesels?

Yes, light-duty trucks and diesels. We add truck checks: hitch and receiver, trailer wiring, 4WD engagement, tire load range, differential leaks and underbody rust. On diesels we also look at the fuel-water separator and turbo hoses. Heavy-duty trucks are out of scope.

### Can the seller see the report?

That is your call. You paid for the inspection, so the printout and photos are yours. Many buyers share the needed items with the seller to negotiate the price. We are happy to walk both of you through the findings together.

### What if the car has a problem you did not find?

Call us and bring it in. We will look at it, compare it with the report and photos, and tell you honestly what we see. Some faults are intermittent or hidden inside the engine or transmission, which is why the report states its limits in writing.

### Should I get an inspection on a used car from a dealer too?

It is worth asking. A dealer's own checklist is done by the seller. An independent used car inspection gives you your own printout and photos. Ask the dealer whether you can bring the car to 1775 W Foothill Blvd before you sign, and treat a refusal as information.

## Related pages

- https://goodyearelitetireupland.com/about/resources/ppi-checklist/
- https://goodyearelitetireupland.com/services/digital-vehicle-inspections/
- https://goodyearelitetireupland.com/tires/tire-wear-patterns/
- https://goodyearelitetireupland.com/services/check-engine-light-diagnostics/
- https://goodyearelitetireupland.com/contact/book-appointment/

---

Call (909) 608-7699 or book at https://goodyearelitetireupland.com/contact/book-appointment/