Pre-Purchase Inspection Checklist for Used Cars

A pre-purchase inspection, or PPI, is a check by a shop that is not selling the car. It gives you a written picture of the car's condition on the day of the inspection, so you can negotiate, walk away or buy with open eyes.

It is not a warranty. It is not a promise that nothing will fail next week. It does not replace the seller's service records, and it does not take the seller's word for anything. Some problems only appear under conditions we cannot recreate in one visit, and some parts cannot be seen without taking things apart.

The outside tells you how the car was treated. Tires tell you about alignment, suspension and how soon you will be spending money.

• Panel gaps and paint that does not match, which can suggest past repairs
• Rust on the underside, rocker panels and around the hitch on trucks
• Tread depth on all four tires, and whether the brands and wear match
• Date codes: the last four digits of the DOT code show week and year. See the tire date code guide.
• Uneven wear that points to alignment or suspension problems
• On trucks: the tire load range fits how you plan to use it

Leaks and neglect show up here. A clean engine bay is not proof of good care, and a fresh wash can hide a leak.

• Oil, coolant, transmission and brake fluid levels and condition
• Leaks at the engine, transmission, differential and power steering
• Belts and hoses for cracks or swelling
• Battery age and a load test
• Exhaust leaks and hangers
• Brake pads, rotors and lines, with photos
• Suspension parts, CV boots and steering play
• On 4WD vehicles: transfer case and front differential engagement

A car can have no warning light and still store codes, or the codes may have been cleared recently. A scan checks for stored and pending codes and whether the emissions readiness monitors have finished running. Monitors that are not ready can mean the codes were recently erased.

The road test covers cold start, idle, shifting, braking, steering, noises, vibration at speed, and the AC. On a 4WD, we engage it where it is safe to do so.

Trucks often lived harder lives than their mileage suggests. Towing and hauling wear parts that a commuter car never stresses.

• Hitch, receiver, wiring and signs of heavy towing
• Rear springs and shocks for sag
• Brake condition, since towing heats brakes
• Transmission fluid color and smell
• Tire load range and whether it matches the truck's use
• Aftermarket lifts or wheels that can affect alignment and handling

For towing questions, see our hitch and tow package inspection.

Keep it simple: "I would like an independent inspection before I buy. Can you bring it to the shop, or can I?" A seller who refuses gives you information too.

After the inspection, ask to see the report and the scan printout. Expect photos of tires, brakes, leaks and anything flagged. We separate safety needs from wants so you can price the car honestly. Recall status can be checked by VIN at NHTSA recalls (opens in a new tab). Book through the pre-purchase inspections page.

We report what we can see, measure and test on the day. We do not take apart the engine or transmission, and we cannot predict how long any part will last. Intermittent problems may not show up during the visit.

An inspection lowers your risk. It does not remove it. Treat the report as one input along with the price, the service history and your own gut.

Schedule the inspection after you like the car on a test drive but before you pay, sign or hand over a deposit you cannot get back. Ask the seller for a window that lets the car sit cold overnight if possible, since a cold start reveals noises and smoke that a warm engine hides.

• Agree with the seller on who drives the car to the shop
• Ask the seller not to warm the car up before it arrives
• Send a request and we call or text to confirm a time
• Plan to be reachable by phone while the inspection runs
• Keep the deal open until you have read the findings

Yes, with a clear limit. We inspect the parts we service on these cars: tires, brakes, the 12-volt battery, alignment, suspension, the cabin filter and stored codes, plus a road test. The health of the high-voltage battery and any orange cable components needs a specialist, so plan a separate check if that matters to the price.

Brakes on hybrids and EVs often wear slowly because regenerative braking does much of the work, but rotors can rust from light use. Heavy EVs can also wear tires faster than owners expect. Both are worth a close look before you buy.

The report turns guesses into specific items. Needs, such as worn brakes or old tires, are fair points to raise with the seller because you will pay for them soon. Wants are small and rarely worth arguing over. Some findings suggest walking away rather than negotiating.