Hitch and Tow Package Inspection

The inspection follows the path of the load, from the trailer coupler back to your vehicle's frame.

• Receiver: cracks, rust, bent tubes and loose mounting bolts.
• Class and rating label: the class stamped on the receiver, which sets its gross trailer weight and tongue weight limits, and whether the opening is 1-1/4 inch or 2 inch.
• Ball mount and ball: size, rating stamped on the ball, tight nut and correct height.
• Pin and clip: present, correct size and secure.
• Safety chain loops: solid and not worn through.
• Wiring connector: clean pins and a secure mount.
• Trailer lights: running, brake and turn signals work on both sides.
• Tires and brakes: pressure set for the load, tread and brake condition on the tow vehicle.

For towing a U-Haul, the U-Haul towing inspection page explains the walkaround done at pickup.

The ball must match the trailer's coupler size, and every part in the chain must be rated for the load. Common ball sizes are 1-7/8 inch, 2 inch and 2-5/16 inch. The size is stamped on top of the ball, and the coupler size is usually marked on the trailer tongue.

Hitches are grouped into classes under the SAE J684 standard, and the class sets both the weight the hitch is built for and the size of the receiver opening.

Class V covers anything above the Class IV figures. California requires brakes on a trailer whose gross weight is over 1,500 pounds, and it caps any vehicle pulling a trailer at 55 mph no matter what the posted limit says. The California DMV (opens in a new tab) publishes those rules.

The lowest-rated part sets your limit. That includes the hitch, the ball mount, the ball, and your vehicle's own towing rating, which comes from the maker and not from the hitch. Bolting on a Class IV hitch does not raise what the vehicle is rated to pull.

When you call, confirm current trailer specs and the coupler size with us so the ball matches.

Tongue weight is how hard the trailer pushes down on the hitch ball. Too little and the trailer can sway. Too much and the rear of the tow vehicle squats, which lightens the front wheels and hurts steering and braking.

On a conventional trailer, tongue weight should be about 10 to 15 percent of the loaded trailer weight, so it moves every time you move the load. Your vehicle and hitch labels set the ceiling, and the hitch class table above shows what each class allows. Practical tips:

• Load heavier items slightly ahead of the trailer axle.
• Keep the load low and tied down so it cannot shift.
• Look at the tow vehicle from the side. It should sit fairly level.
• If the rear sags a lot, the load or the setup needs adjusting.

Worn shocks make squat and sway worse. Our suspension page covers that.

Lights let other drivers know what you are doing. Chains keep the trailer attached if the coupler lets go. Both are required for safe towing, and both are quick to check.

Lights

• Plug in and test running lights, brake lights and both turn signals with a helper.
• A light that works on one side only often means a bad ground or corroded pin.
• Keep the cord off the ground but loose enough to turn.

Safety chains

• Cross the chains under the coupler so they form a cradle.
• Attach them to the vehicle's chain loops, not the ball or the ball mount.
• Leave enough slack to turn, but not so much that they drag.

If the lights fail and the connector is corroded or the vehicle wiring is damaged, we note it and write an estimate for the repair.

Yes. This lot is a U-Haul Neighborhood Dealer, so the hitch check and the trailer or tow dolly pickup can happen in one stop. Call (909) 608-7699 to reserve. Tell us your vehicle, your hitch and what you plan to haul, and confirm current trailer specs when you call.

At pickup we do a walkaround: hitch connection, lights, chains, and the trailer's condition. At return we walk it again. See the trailer hitch and tow package and tow dolly pages for details on U-Haul equipment. If you tow often, pair the hitch check with brake service.

When trailer lights are not working, the cause is usually a ground, a corroded connector, a blown fuse or a mismatched plug, not the bulbs. A trailer wiring check tests the vehicle side and the trailer side separately, so the right end gets fixed.

Before you call

1. Check the vehicle's own lights with the trailer unplugged.
2. Look for green corrosion inside both connectors.
3. Note which lights fail and on which side.

We tell you whether the fault is on the vehicle or the trailer and write the estimate for that side only.