Shocks, Struts and Suspension Repair

Worn shocks and struts show up as extra bouncing after bumps, nose dive under braking, body lean in turns, and a floaty feel at highway speed. You may also see oil on the shock body or cupped patches on the tires. The change is gradual, which is why many manufacturers suggest an inspection around 50,000 miles rather than waiting for a symptom.

Common signs:

• The car keeps bouncing after a dip or speed bump
• The front end dives hard when you brake
• The rear squats when you accelerate or carry weight
• The body leans or sways on freeway ramps
• Oil or fluid on the outside of a shock or strut
• Cupped or scalloped tire wear
• A clunk or knock over bumps

Worn dampers also make stopping distances and emergency maneuvers less stable, because the tires do not stay pressed to the road as well.

Both control spring motion, but a strut is also a structural part of the suspension. It holds the spring and supports the steering knuckle, so replacing it changes alignment angles. A shock only damps motion and does not support the vehicle's weight. Many cars have struts in front and shocks in back; many trucks use shocks at all four corners.

Many struts are sold as complete assemblies with the spring and mount already installed, which saves labor and replaces worn mounts at the same time. We explain the choice on the estimate.

Clunks usually come from worn joints and links rather than the shocks themselves. Sway bar links, control arm bushings, ball joints, tie rod ends and strut mounts all wear and develop play. We check each one with the vehicle raised and loaded, because some play only shows under weight. A loose ball joint or tie rod is a safety item.

What we inspect:

• Sway bar links and bushings: the most common source of a light clunk
• Control arm bushings: cracked rubber lets the arm shift under braking
• Ball joints: play here can let the wheel wander, a need item
• Tie rod ends: loose steering, uneven wear, wandering on the freeway
• Strut mounts and bearings: noise when turning the wheel at low speed
• Springs: broken coils or sagging ride height

Some noises that sound like suspension come from a wheel bearing or a CV axle, so we road-test to confirm before quoting.

Yes, on the same axle. Replacing only one side leaves the car with different damping left to right, which affects handling and braking stability. Both fronts or both rears is the normal recommendation. All four is only needed when all four are worn, and the estimate shows the condition of each corner with photos.

After strut replacement or any work on steering and suspension joints, alignment angles change. We check alignment and correct it so your tires do not wear unevenly. The wheel alignment page explains the printout you receive.

If you tow or carry heavy loads, ask about heavy-duty or load-assist options. They are a want, not a need, unless the vehicle sags below its normal ride height.

They can. Lane-keeping cameras and radar-based cruise systems rely on the vehicle sitting at its designed height and angle. Replacing struts with standard parts at stock height usually keeps things in range, but lift kits, lowering springs or sagging springs can shift the sensors' view. We tell you when a vehicle may need a calibration check after suspension work.

If your vehicle needs a calibration we cannot perform in-house, we say so before you approve the job, so you are not surprised afterward.

A suspension inspection checks every part that holds the wheel in place or controls how it moves, because a worn part in one spot wears out the parts around it. We look for leaks, play, cracked rubber and sagging, and we check with the weight on the wheels and off them. Here is what each check is for.

Tire wear is part of the evidence. Cupping and scalloping point to dampers, inner or outer edge wear points to alignment or joints, and our tire wear patterns page shows what each looks like.

Suspension wears fastest on vehicles that see lots of dips, speed humps, driveway aprons and heavy loads. Around here, that means stop-and-go traffic on Foothill Blvd, freeway expansion joints on the 10 and the 210, and pickups and vans that carry tools, gear or a trailer most days. Heat also hardens rubber bushings over time.

Where the wear comes from:

• Stop-and-go traffic: each hard stop pitches the nose forward and loads the front struts.
• Speed humps and driveway dips: repeated sharp hits wear strut mounts and sway bar links.
• Freeway joints: steady impacts at speed work ball joints and tie rod ends.
• Loaded beds and cargo areas: constant weight sags springs and tires out rear shocks. Our work trucks page covers this in more detail.
• Towing: tongue weight pushes the rear down and lightens the front, which changes steering feel. Pair a suspension check with a hitch and tow package inspection before a trip.

Common mistakes

• Replacing shocks but leaving loose sway bar links, so the clunk stays.
• Skipping the alignment after strut work, then wearing out new tires.
• Adding air bags or spacers to hide sagging springs instead of fixing them.